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	<title>Robert Breen &#187; Robert</title>
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		<title>Japan: Cherry Blossoms</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/japan-cherry-blossoms/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/japan-cherry-blossoms/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2015 02:35:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=212</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I’ve been fortunate during my recent journeys to tick a few travel-related items off my bucket list. I have always wanted to visit Japan during the beginning of spring and travel the country south to north following the cherry blossoms. For the uninitiated, cherry trees have an extremely short flowering season. The blossoms last for &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/japan-cherry-blossoms/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Japan: Cherry Blossoms</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I’ve been fortunate during my recent journeys to tick a few travel-related items off my bucket list.</p>
<p>I have always wanted to visit Japan during the beginning of spring and travel the country south to north following the cherry blossoms. For the uninitiated, cherry trees have an extremely short flowering season. The blossoms last for around two weeks at most, or as little as a few days if wind and rain knock the flowers from the trees. Catching the trees in full bloom requires a combination of good timing and sheer luck.</p>
<figure id="attachment_215" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-01.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-215" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-01-300x225.jpg" alt="Families gather along the Kyū-Yodo River to picnic under the cherry blossoms." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Families gather along the Kyū-Yodo River to picnic under the cherry blossoms.</figcaption></figure>
<p><span id="more-212"></span>I was lucky enough to arrive in Osaka at the height of the bloom. Even luckier, my timing coincided with the one and only sunny day I’ve experienced since I arrived in Japan.</p>
<figure id="attachment_217" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-03.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-217" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-03-300x225.jpg" alt="Thank goodness for at least one sunny day to enjoy the cherries in peak bloom." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Thank goodness for at least one sunny day to enjoy the cherries in peak bloom.</figcaption></figure>
<p>I wandered along the Kyū-Yodo River, which meanders through central Osaka. The city was alive with crowds along the entire length of the river; the cherry blossom season is a tourism highlight and the crowds were comprised of an even mix of Japanese and foreign tourists.</p>
<p>I eventually arrived at Osaka Castle, which is an impressive feat of construction featuring deep moats, cyclopean stonework, and manicured gardens.</p>
<figure id="attachment_218" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-04.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-218" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-04-300x225.jpg" alt="Cherry trees line the edge of the moats which surround Osaka Castle." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Cherry trees line the edge of the moats which surround Osaka Castle.</figcaption></figure>
<p>Most of the moats were filled with water and alive with fish and turtles, but a few had been emptied with grass grown along the bottom. The contrasts of colours between grass, stonework, cherry blossoms and the sky was striking.</p>
<figure id="attachment_219" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-05.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-219" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-05-300x225.jpg" alt="The lawns which line the emptied moats around Osaka Castle provide a striking colour contrast to the stonework, the cherry blossoms, and the sky." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The lawns which line the emptied moats around Osaka Castle provide a striking colour contrast to the stonework, the cherry blossoms, and the sky.</figcaption></figure>
<p>If you want to visit Japan during the cherry blossom season, you can track the latest predictions for &#8220;full bloom&#8221; <a title="Cherry Blooming Forecasts" href="http://www.jnto.go.jp/sakura/eng/index.php" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<figure id="attachment_220" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-06.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-220" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Blossoms-06-300x225.jpg" alt="The moats surrounding Osaka Castle are teeming with fish and turtles." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The moats surrounding Osaka Castle are teeming with fish and turtles.</figcaption></figure>
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		<title>Mongolia: Bankhar Dog</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-bankhar-dog/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-bankhar-dog/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2015 03:39:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bankhar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dogs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mastiff]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mongolia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[puppies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[puppy]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=197</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[During my time in Mongolia, I had the pleasure of meeting Doug Lally and Devin Byrne from The Nomadic Guardians Foundation. The Foundation’s purpose is to protect and restore the Bankhar, an ancient dog breed indigenous to Mongolia. A cousin of the Tibetan Mastiff, the Bankhar has been used for centuries as a livestock guardian &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-bankhar-dog/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Mongolia: Bankhar Dog</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>During my time in Mongolia, I had the pleasure of meeting Doug Lally and Devin Byrne from The Nomadic Guardians Foundation. The Foundation’s purpose is to protect and restore the Bankhar, an ancient dog breed indigenous to Mongolia.</p>
<p>A cousin of the Tibetan Mastiff, the Bankhar has been used for centuries as a livestock guardian by Mongolia’s nomadic herders. However, during the country’s Soviet occupation, the Bankhar population dropped significantly and in many regions of the country the Bankhar lost its place in the nomads’ culture.</p>
<figure id="attachment_199" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-02.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-199" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-02-300x225.jpg" alt="Mongolian Bankhar demands kisses!" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Mongolian Bankhar demands kisses!</figcaption></figure>
<p><span id="more-197"></span>Instead, herders came to rely on guns and poisons as a means to defend their flocks, which has had a terrible impact on the country’s populations of wolves and snow leopards.</p>
<figure id="attachment_200" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-03.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-200" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-03-300x225.jpg" alt="A beautiful Bankhar I met during a horse riding trip." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A beautiful Bankhar I met during a horse riding trip.</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_201" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-04.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-201" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-04-300x225.jpg" alt="A Bankhar in Terelj shows his Husky friend some love." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A Bankhar in Terelj shows his Husky friend some love.</figcaption></figure>
<p>The Foundation aims to turn this situation around via a program of breeding, genetic testing, and education programs, to produce a purebred population of Bankhar and reintroduce them back into the lifestyle and culture of Mongolia’s herding families. Success will mean not only the preservation of an important part of Mongolia’s cultural history, but it will help stop the decline of Mongolia’s precious wolf and leopard populations by providing herders with a non-lethal method to protect their livestock.</p>
<figure id="attachment_202" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-05.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-202" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-05-300x225.jpg" alt="The heart-melting eyes of a Bankhar." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The heart-melting eyes of a Bankhar.</figcaption></figure>
<p>The Bankhar are magnificent dogs, physically imposing but with sweet temperaments. The day I visited, Doug and Devin were preparing the 19 puppies born in recent months for a trip to the vet for their latest round of vaccinations. Needless to say, there are few things cuter than a carload of puppies.</p>
<figure id="attachment_206" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-09.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-206" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-09-300x225.jpg" alt="Carful of puppies. Nothing is cuter." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Carful of puppies. Nothing is cuter.</figcaption></figure>
<p>For more information and to follow the Foundation’s progress, follow their Facebook page <a title="The Nomadic Guardians Foundation" href="https://www.facebook.com/bankhardogproject">here</a>.</p>
<figure id="attachment_205" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-08.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-205" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-08-300x225.jpg" alt="Can I please take one home?" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Can I please take one home?</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_204" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-07.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-204" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-07-300x225.jpg" alt="Saying hello to the pack." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Saying hello to the pack.</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_203" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-06.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-203" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Bankhar-06-300x225.jpg" alt="Hugs with Aslan, proud father of many of the Foundation's Bankhar puppies." width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Hugs with Aslan, proud father of many of the Foundation&#8217;s Bankhar puppies.</figcaption></figure>
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		<title>Mongolia: Air Pollution</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-air-pollution/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-air-pollution/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2015 03:16:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[creditmongol]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[green]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mongolia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pollution]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[xacbank]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=191</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As I mentioned in an earlier post—Mongolia: First Impressions—the smog in Ulaanbaatar (UB) was the first thing I noticed as my plane came in to land at Mongolia’s capital. During Mongolia’s long and harsh winters, UB’s air quality plummets to become the second-polluted in the world. 60% of the pollution comes from households burning coal &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-air-pollution/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Mongolia: Air Pollution</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As I mentioned in an earlier post—<a title="Mongolia: First Impressions" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-first-impressions/">Mongolia: First Impressions</a>—the smog in Ulaanbaatar (UB) was the first thing I noticed as my plane came in to land at Mongolia’s capital.</p>
<p>During Mongolia’s long and harsh winters, UB’s air quality plummets to become the second-polluted in the world. 60% of the pollution comes from households burning coal in small stoves. UB’s population of 1.4m—almost half of Mongolia’s total 3.0m population—has grown rapidly in recent years, driven by families migrating to the capital from rural areas. Most of these families live in gers, traditional nomadic felt tents. To keep warm during winter, they burn coal to stay warm, with the average family consuming 4.5 tonnes of coal during a single winter.</p>
<p><span id="more-191"></span>I was recently living in Mongolia, working with the microfinance crowdfunding organization Kiva. Kiva, through its local partner organisations XacBank and Credit Mongol, is helping to combat Mongolia’s smog problems by providing funding for items like energy efficient stoves, better insulation, and solar panels, via their green loan programs. A loan to replace old stoves and purchase a proper insulating blanket for a family’s ger can reduce a family’s coal consumption—and the amount of smoke produced—by 60%.</p>
<p>These programs provide more than an environmental benefit. Families can spend upwards of 40% of their household budget on coal during winter; a green loan to reduce a family’s coal consumption means more in the family’s pocket for food, education, or to help fund their business.</p>
<figure id="attachment_193" style="width: 540px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Solar-Panel-Factory.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-193" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Solar-Panel-Factory.jpg" alt="With one of Kiva's partners, XacBank, I toured a solar panel factory that XacBank's eco-banking department was considering partnering with." width="540" height="540" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">With one of Kiva&#8217;s partners, XacBank, I toured a solar panel factory that XacBank&#8217;s eco-banking department was considering partnering with.</figcaption></figure>
<p>For more information, visit <a href="http://kiva.org">Kiva.org</a>.</p>
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		<title>Mongolia: a weekend in Terelj (Part 3 of 3)</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-huskies/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-huskies/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jan 2015 07:02:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dog-sledding]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gorkhi-terelj]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hiking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[horses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[huskies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mongolia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sledding]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[terelj]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tuul]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ulaanbaatar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[winter]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=151</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[(Click here for Part 1 or here for Part 2) I woke up early Sunday morning, too excited to sleep knowing we were going to play with an army of huskies. After a quick breakfast, we jumped in the car and drove down to the Tuul River. The Tuul is a long waterway, flowing over seven &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-huskies/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Mongolia: a weekend in Terelj (Part 3 of 3)</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>(Click <a title="Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 1 of 3)" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-horses/">here</a> for Part 1 or <a title="Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 2 of 3)" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-hiking/">here</a> for Part 2)</em></p>
<p>I woke up early Sunday morning, too excited to sleep knowing we were going to play with an army of huskies. After a quick breakfast, we jumped in the car and drove down to the Tuul River. The Tuul is a long waterway, flowing over seven hundred kilometres through northern and central Mongolia, including through Ulaanbaatar along the southern edge of the city.</p>
<p>The river is frozen solid during winter, so we drove right out into the centre of the ice to meet the dog-sledding folk. We arrived to see the five sleds already laid out on the ice, with the dogs being taken one-by-one from the truck and hooked up to the sleds. The demeanour of the dogs ran the full gamut from irrepressible excitement to zero-fucks-given.</p>
<figure id="attachment_156" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-01.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-156" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-01-300x225.jpg" alt="The dogs' enthusiasm ran from irrepresible excitement to zero-fucks-given" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The dogs&#8217; enthusiasm ran from irrepresible excitement to zero-fucks-given</figcaption></figure>
<p><span id="more-151"></span>We quickly paired up and chose a sled. The setup was quite simple. One person zips themselves into a waterproof seat on the body of the sled—the waterproofing becomes important later on—whilst the other person stands on the back in the driver’s position. The driver leans left or right to direct the pack, to brake there’s a foot pedal that gouges into the ice, and there’s a more powerful parking break slash grappling hook on a rope when you want to stop completely.</p>
<figure id="attachment_157" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-02.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-157" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-02-300x225.jpg" alt="Sled chosen, ready to go" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Sled chosen, ready to go</figcaption></figure>
<p>I paired up with a friend and chose the driver’s position for the first half of the journey. As we settled into our sleds, the dogs sensed the trip was about to start. Their energy grew, with even the zero-fucks-given huskies standing up and pulling against the parking brakes whilst howling their excitement. If you’ve ever owned a husky, you know they love to run, and these dogs were ready to run.</p>
<p>Finally, we were all ready and so I pulled the parking brake (slash grappling hook) out of the ice. The sled leapt forward as the dogs bolted down the river.</p>
<figure id="attachment_158" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-03.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-158" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-03-300x225.jpg" alt="Look at that poise and determination. Totally pro sledding" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Look at that poise and determination. Totally pro sledding</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_159" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-04.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-159" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-04-300x225.jpg" alt="World's greatest dog sled team right here" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">World&#8217;s greatest dog sled team right here</figcaption></figure>
<p>Dog sledding is a hell of a lot of fun. There’s very little required from the driver; the dogs pretty much know where to run. That being said, there were several moments of hilarity, including when half the dogs in our sled team decided they needed to poop and attempted to do so whilst running; poor doggies. There were also some clear tensions between the sled teams.  Our pack and one of the others seem to have a rivalry or ongoing feud. They barked and snapped at each other whenever we passed and I swear the two teams were trying to outpace each other.</p>
<p>I said there was “very little required from the driver” but there were one or two occasions where I should have steered better. Although most of the river was frozen solid, we drove through a slushy portion, to the right of which lay a pool of ice-cold water knee-to-waist deep in parts. I failed to steer the dogs far enough to the left, resulting in our sled slipping sideways into the water.</p>
<figure id="attachment_160" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-05.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-160" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-05-300x225.jpg" alt="Failure to steer left = knee-deep in frozen water. I lost hold of the sled a split-second after this photo was taken" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Failure to steer left = knee-deep in frozen water. I lost hold of the sled a split-second after this photo was taken</figcaption></figure>
<p>I ended up one leg knee-deep and lost my grip, falling off the sled. As I climbed out of the river shaking off the water, I watched my sled disappear down the river with my sled partner’s squeals echoing across the landscape. Thankfully, this incident occurred near the end of the trail, so I was able to jog along the river to catch up to the other sleds. The groups paused for a break to take photos and switch drivers before heading off again on the return journey.</p>
<figure id="attachment_161" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-06.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-161" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-06-300x225.jpg" alt="Taking a break half-way through the ride to pose" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Taking a break half-way through the ride to pose</figcaption></figure>
<p>The ride back was a lot more fun for me as I was able to just enjoy the view and take a bunch of videos and photos.</p>
<figure id="attachment_162" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-07.jpg"><img class="wp-image-162 size-medium" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-07-300x225.jpg" alt="Terelj-Huskies-07" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">First person sled shot</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_163" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-08.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-163" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-08-300x225.jpg" alt="Short break with the doggies" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Short break with the doggies</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_164" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-09.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-164" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-09-300x225.jpg" alt="Puppy pit stop on the way home" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Puppy pit stop on the way home</figcaption></figure>
<div class="jetpack-video-wrapper"><span class='embed-youtube' style='text-align:center; display: block;'><iframe class='youtube-player' type='text/html' width='660' height='402' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/SRFJGKtJ8JI?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;fs=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;wmode=transparent' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen='true'></iframe></span></div>
<p>However, the journey back was not without incident. My driver managed to collide with a branch and fall off the back of the sled. I happened to be filming at the time and in the video below can hear her screams at the exact moment she falls off the sled. I am of course sharing this for educational, not entertainment, purposes, although I’d be lying if I didn’t admit it makes me laugh.</p>
<div class="jetpack-video-wrapper"><span class='embed-youtube' style='text-align:center; display: block;'><iframe class='youtube-player' type='text/html' width='660' height='402' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/KfyjdSMHItc?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;fs=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;wmode=transparent' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen='true'></iframe></span></div>
<p>Later, we ended up sliding into the same slushy portion of the river, except where I ended up with only one leg knee-deep in the water, my sled partner went right in up to her waist. Oops. She was not alone, as a few of us has a spot of trouble around this part of the river. I ended up switching sled teams and riding home with another friend for the final leg, triumphantly returning to home base without further incident.</p>
<div class="jetpack-video-wrapper"><span class='embed-youtube' style='text-align:center; display: block;'><iframe class='youtube-player' type='text/html' width='660' height='402' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/_6XRZ6zDJ9w?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;fs=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;wmode=transparent' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen='true'></iframe></span></div>
<figure id="attachment_165" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-10.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-165" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-10-300x200.jpg" alt="On the home run!" width="300" height="200" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">On the home run!</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_166" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-11.jpg"><img class="wp-image-166 size-medium" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-11-300x225.jpg" alt="Terelj-Huskies-11" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A triumphant return to home base</figcaption></figure>
<p>We too a break around a campfire whilst the dogs were unhooked and put on a long chain to rest until the next group of tourists arrived.</p>
<figure id="attachment_167" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-12.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-167" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-12-300x225.jpg" alt="The dogs take a break after a hard 90 minutes sledding" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The dogs take a break after a hard 90 minutes sledding</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_168" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-13.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-168" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-13-300x225.jpg" alt="The dogs take a break after a hard 90 minutes sledding" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The dogs take a break after a hard 90 minutes sledding</figcaption></figure>
<p>It was great to get to meet the dogs, who all had very different personalities.</p>
<p>Some were overenthusiastic goofballs:</p>
<figure id="attachment_170" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-15.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-170" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-15-300x225.jpg" alt="Some of the dogs were adorably overexcited" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Some of the dogs were adorably overexcited</figcaption></figure>
<p>Some, like this pack leader, were magnificent beast who radiated stoicism and command:</p>
<figure id="attachment_172" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-17.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-172" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-17-300x225.jpg" alt="This magnificent beast was happy to take a photo, but the whole time he remained in alpha mode" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">This magnificent beast was happy to take a photo, but the whole time he remained in alpha mode</figcaption></figure>
<p>And others, like this girls, were total cuddle monsters who collapsed into you if you so much as scratched behind their ears:</p>
<figure id="attachment_171" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-16.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-171" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-16-300x225.jpg" alt="One scratch behind the ear and this girl melted in my arms" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">One scratch behind the ear and this girl melted in my arms</figcaption></figure>
<p>All in all, the entire weekend in Terelj was epic. From horse-riding, to hiking, to huskies, it was a fantastic way to spend a couple of days with friends, and it further cemented my impression of Mongolia as an amazing travel destination.</p>
<figure id="attachment_169" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-14.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-169" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Huskies-14-300x225.jpg" alt="Huskies make every weekend amazing" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Huskies make every weekend amazing</figcaption></figure>
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		<title>Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 2 of 3)</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-hiking/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-hiking/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jan 2015 03:26:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hiking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[horses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[huskies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mongolia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[terelj]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ulaanbaatar]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=129</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[(Click here for Part 1) After an hour or so R&#38;R, we were ready to go hiking. Everyone in the group was well-prepared, except for me. Despite the perpetually-icy streets of Ulaanbaatar, I still hadn’t bought myself a pair of winter boots. At first, I was waiting to find the best place to buy them; &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-hiking/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 2 of 3)</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>(Click <a title="Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 1)" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-horses/">here</a> for Part 1)</em></p>
<p>After an hour or so R&amp;R, we were ready to go hiking. Everyone in the group was well-prepared, except for me. Despite the perpetually-icy streets of Ulaanbaatar, I still hadn’t bought myself a pair of winter boots. At first, I was waiting to find the best place to buy them; but after a couple of weeks of surviving totally fine, I decided maybe I didn’t need boots. So for the entire weekend, I was wearing a flimsy pair of Diesel running shoes that were so old there was little-to-no grip left on the soles.</p>
<figure id="attachment_143" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-NotHikingBoots.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-143" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-NotHikingBoots-300x225.jpg" alt="These are definitely NOT hiking boots" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">These are definitely NOT hiking boots</figcaption></figure>
<p>As it turned out, grip-less running shoes and slippery ice-covered Mongolian hiking trails do not mix. Who’d have thought?<span id="more-129"></span></p>
<p>Our guide drove us along a bumpy dirt road from our ger camp, winding carefully up and down the icy hills, before turning off and parking at the base of a ridge. The hike to the top of the ridge took about an hour and a half. Despite my inappropriate footwear, I managed not to slip off the mountain and break my neck, thanks to a couple of trusty hiking sticks foraged from the mountainside, plus a helping hand from my friends to get me over the steeper patches.  The effort was absolutely worth it. The view down into the valley was spectacular.</p>
<figure id="attachment_137" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-EpicShot.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-137" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-EpicShot-300x225.jpg" alt="Epic view from a mountaintop in Terelj" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Epic view from a mountaintop in Terelj</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_140" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-RockPerch.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-140" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-RockPerch-300x225.jpg" alt="Taking a hiking break on a precarious rock in Terelj" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Taking a hiking break on a precarious rock in Terelj</figcaption></figure>
<p>From here, our guide pointed us in the direction of Aryapala, a Buddhist temple and meditation centre nestled on a neighbouring mountain. We were left to trek our way there whilst our guide returned to the base of the ridge to fetch the car and meet us on the other side. If my shoes made the trip up the first ridge difficult, they made the trip to the temple downright dangerous. The path required us to descend the mountain we were in before climbing up to Aryapala.</p>
<figure id="attachment_142" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Descent.jpg"><img class="wp-image-142 size-medium" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Descent-300x225.jpg" alt="I eventually gave up walking down the mountain and slid down on my butt and shoes" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">I eventually gave up walking down the mountain and slid down on my butt and shoes</figcaption></figure>
<p>After trying in vain to walk down the mountain, I eventually gave up and tobogganed down the mountain on my feet and butt—far more fun and practical, despite the dark smear of mud I had to wear on my pants for the rest of the trip. Once at the bottom of the ridge, the walk up to Aryapala was relatively easy and the scenery was beautiful.</p>
<figure id="attachment_141" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Path.jpg"><img class="wp-image-141 size-medium" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Path-300x225.jpg" alt="Signs depicting prayers and scripture line the path up to Aryapala" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Signs depicting prayers and scripture line the path up to Aryapala</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_139" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Arypala-Shrine.jpg"><img class="wp-image-139 size-medium" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Arypala-Shrine-300x225.jpg" alt="A shrine on the path up to Aryapala" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A shrine on the path up to Aryapala</figcaption></figure>
<p>Your gaze was met with prayer wheels and shrines everywhere you looked on the path up to the temple. All were painted in bright colours that jump out against the stark wintery landscape.</p>
<figure id="attachment_138" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Distance.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-138" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Distance-300x200.jpg" alt="Aryapala temple and meditation center as seen from the path below" width="300" height="200" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Aryapala temple and meditation center as seen from the path below</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_132" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Front.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-132" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Front-300x225.jpg" alt="The final steps on the path up to Aryapala" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The final steps on the path up to Aryapala</figcaption></figure>
<p>The temple itself was also stunning, with intricately-painted details on every corner of the building.</p>
<figure id="attachment_134" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Side.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-134" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Side-300x225.jpg" alt="Aryapala meditation center, side view" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Aryapala meditation center, side view</figcaption></figure>
<p>The temple looks down upon a picturesque valley with many pointed mountains rising off into the distance.</p>
<figure id="attachment_136" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Valley.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-136" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Valley-300x225.jpg" alt="The view from Aryapala down into the valley" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The view from Aryapala down into the valley</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_135" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Steps.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-135" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Aryapala-Steps-300x225.jpg" alt="The final ascent up to Aryapala from the valley below" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The final ascent up to Aryapala from the valley below</figcaption></figure>
<p>After stopping here for a while to catch our breath, we met our guide and wandered down to the car. Our last stop for the afternoon was Turtle Rock, a famous landmark whose name needs no explanation.</p>
<figure id="attachment_145" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-TurtleRock.jpg"><img class="wp-image-145 size-medium" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-TurtleRock-300x225.jpg" alt="Terelj-TurtleRock" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Turtle Rock</figcaption></figure>
<p>Although we were thoroughly exhausted upon returning to our ger, we weren’t finished hiking. After dinner, card games, and a certain quantity of vodka, we decided to venture into the dark to go star-gazing. We wandered off away from the tourist areas, trying to escape the lights so we could see the stars. Unfortunately, the moon was three-quarters full, which washed out much off the starlight no matter how much distance we put between ourselves and the camp. Nevertheless, we pressed on, going so far as to clamber up a nearby mountain. Whilst we were never able to get a good look at the stars, we did get a beautiful view down into the darkened valley and back to the tourist area.</p>
<figure id="attachment_133" style="width: 300px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-NightShot.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-133" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-NightShot-300x225.jpg" alt="A night view of the Terelj tourist area from a nearby mountain, light enhanced" width="300" height="225" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A night view of the Terelj tourist area from a nearby mountain, light enhanced</figcaption></figure>
<p>Finally, with our vodka-induced enthusiasm draining away, we slipped and skidded back down the mountain to our ger, collapsing into bed to get a good night’s rest before our dog-sledding adventure in the morning.</p>
<p><em>(Click <a title="Mongolia: a weekend in Terelj (Part 3 of 3)" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-huskies/">here</a> for Part 3)</em></p>
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		<title>Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 1 of 3)</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-horses/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-horses/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Jan 2015 07:29:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hiking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[horses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[huskies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mongolia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[terelj]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ulaanbaatar]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=116</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I spent a weekend with friends visiting Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. This beautiful expanse of largely-untouched wilderness is located about 65 kilometres—or a 90 minute drive—East of central Ulaanbaatar. A lush green paradise in Summer, Terlelj is still a beautiful place to visit in the dead of Winter. With an overnight stay in a traditional ger, &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-horses/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 1 of 3)</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I spent a weekend with friends visiting Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. This beautiful expanse of largely-untouched wilderness is located about 65 kilometres—or a 90 minute drive—East of central Ulaanbaatar. A lush green paradise in Summer, Terlelj is still a beautiful place to visit in the dead of Winter. With an overnight stay in a traditional ger, we had the opportunity to enjoy horse-riding, dog-sledding, hiking, plus we visited some local landmarks. Well worth the trip!</p>
<p>The weekend began with a lazy 930am start to meet Bold, our guide and driver. The trip out to Terelj was interesting. For the first hour we drove past mixed residential and industrial neighbourhoods, the density falling the further we drove. The smoke haze of UB continued all the way to these outer areas, albeit not as thick as the city centre. The mountains surrounding UB seem to hold in the pollution, preventing it from dissipating. It wasn’t until we crested a mountain that we finally escaped the smoke bowl. From then on, the trip was beautiful, with clear skies and pristine countryside all around.<span id="more-116"></span></p>
<p>Our first adventure of the day was a horse-ride through the valley. I had no idea what to expect; I had never ridden a horse, except those ultra-docile tour horses that just walk the same trail every day. My friends were all experienced to some degree or another, so I dreaded being the clueless newbie. In my head, I saw myself getting thrown to the ground and breaking an arm. But it turned out horse-riding wasn’t so hard. My noble steed liked to run, so we did a fair bit of galloping. It reminded me of skiing—using my knees to absorb the shock when hurtling across uneven ground.</p>
<figure id="attachment_121" style="width: 400px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Horse-2.jpg"><img class="wp-image-121" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Horse-2.jpg" alt="The valley we rode through was beautiful despite the stark dryness of Winter" width="400" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The valley we rode through was beautiful despite the stark dryness of Winter</figcaption></figure>
<p>In the middle of winter, the landscape is stark and dry, but still very beautiful. We galloped for about an hour through a mix of forests and fields, over rocks and frozen creeks.</p>
<p>I was growing quite fond of my horse, until about an hour into the journey he decided he had run enough and insisted on turning around and heading home. He refused to walk in any direction that didn’t take him back towards the camp. Frustrating, but I can hardly blame him. He would be carrying more idiot tourists later that day, so he probably wanted to conserve his energy.</p>
<figure id="attachment_120" style="width: 400px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img class="wp-image-120" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Horse-1.jpg" alt="My noble steed and I posing for a photo in Terelj" width="400" height="300" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">My noble steed and I posing for a photo in Terelj</figcaption></figure>
<p>After our horse ride we were taken to our accommodation for the evening. We were staying in a ger, a traditional felt-covered nomadic tent. I was coughing furiously by this point. In fact, I would spend most of the weekend loudly hacking my way through our various activities; a side effect of spending my first few weeks in Ulaanbaatar without an anti-pollution mask. It seemed my lungs were using the presence of Terrelj’s fresh air as a chance to clear out weeks of inhaled smog.</p>
<figure id="attachment_118" style="width: 400px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img class="wp-image-118" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Ger-Exterior.jpg" alt="The entrance to our ger in Terelj." width="400" height="300" /><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The entrance to our ger in Terelj.</figcaption></figure>
<p>The ger was warm and comfortable. We soon settled in to rest and stretch out our saddle-sore limbs. One of our group had a rather hilarious bruise in a rather embarrassing place due to an ill-fitting saddle. The rest of us were a little achey and tired to some extent. But we still had much more of the weekend—including hiking and huskies—ahead of us.</p>
<p><i>(Click <a title="Mongolia: A weekend in Terelj (Part 2)" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-terelj-hiking/">here</a> for Part 2)</i></p>
<figure id="attachment_119" style="width: 400px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Ger-Interior.jpg"><img class="wp-image-119" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Terelj-Ger-Interior.jpg" alt="The inside of our ger in Terelj (forgive the mess)." width="400" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The inside of our ger in Terelj (forgive the mess).</figcaption></figure>
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		<title>Writing: My Hit List</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/writing-my-hit-list/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/writing-my-hit-list/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jan 2015 09:57:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Writing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[amediting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[amwriting]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[editing]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[writer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[writing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=96</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[(The word cloud used as the image for this post was generated from my sci-fi short story Dissolution, which you can read here.) Every writer has a list of words or phrases they hate. This post contains my personal list of 63 phrases I avoid because I feel they weaken my writing. I am no expert, so don&#8217;t take this post as gospel. &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/writing-my-hit-list/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Writing: My Hit List</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>(The word cloud used as the image for this post was generated from my sci-fi short story Dissolution, which you can read <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/dissolution">here</a>.)</em></p>
<p>Every writer has a list of words or phrases they hate. This post contains my personal list of 63 phrases I avoid because I feel they weaken my writing. I am no expert, so don&#8217;t take this post as gospel. Nevertheless, this list has helped me, so I thought I would share it. I have compiled this list over the past few years based on personal preferences, plus feedback from editors, beta readers, and fellow writers. Note, I primarily use this list when writing and editing fiction.</p>
<p>To avoid repetition, I grouped similar phrases together in the table below. I then gave each phrase a rating:</p>
<ul>
<li>Black: Total ban. I will rework the sentence to remove these phrases 100% of the time.</li>
<li>Red: Avoid whenever possible. I will do my best to remove these phrases, but if there is a good reason for them to stay, so be it.</li>
<li>Amber: Beware. I will check to see if my use of these phrases indicates a weak sentence.</li>
</ul>
<p>I have included a comment beside each item explaining its inclusion on the list.</p>
<p>Enjoy! Let me know what you think in the comments.<span id="more-96"></span></p>
<p><strong>My Hit List</strong></p>

<table id="tablepress-1" class="tablepress tablepress-id-1">
<thead>
<tr class="row-1 odd">
	<th class="column-1">Phrase</th><th class="column-2">Rating</th><th class="column-3">Comment</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody class="row-hover">
<tr class="row-2 even">
	<td class="column-1">suddenly / all of a sudden / just then / immediately / began / began to / started / started to</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">These are lazy phrases to express urgency or a sudden change in circumstance. I prefer to use verb choice and sentence structure to convey the upbrupt shift.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-3 odd">
	<td class="column-1">get / got / gotten</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">Worst verb ever. Any verb is better than get.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-4 even">
	<td class="column-1">very / really / truly</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">Lazy adjectives Either choose a stronger one or exclude it altogether.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-5 odd">
	<td class="column-1">of it / to it / on it / for it</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">I find that whenever I've written one of these, it means the sentence is clumsy. Rewording can always get rid of these phrases and make the sentence stronger.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-6 even">
	<td class="column-1">amazing</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-7 odd">
	<td class="column-1">literally</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">Not even ironically.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-8 even">
	<td class="column-1">stuff / things</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-9 odd">
	<td class="column-1">the fact that</td><td class="column-2">black</td><td class="column-3">As well as sounding ugly, it usually means the sentence is poorly-written.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-10 even">
	<td class="column-1">that</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">You can almost always remove "that" and you'll improve the sentence's flow without losing meaning.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-11 odd">
	<td class="column-1">felt / thought / believed / realised / knew</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">I try to avoid telling the reader what the character is thinking or feeling. I'd rather show it in actions and internal monologue or external dialogue.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-12 even">
	<td class="column-1">had</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Past perfect tense is ugly. I try to avoid it as much as possible.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-13 odd">
	<td class="column-1">and / and then / just as / as / when</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Often indicate a run-on sentence sentence. Delete them, add a period, carry on.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-14 even">
	<td class="column-1">was / were / be / been / had been / being</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Almost always inidicate of a weak sentence, either passive voice or other problems. Delete, rework and replace with stronger verbs.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-15 odd">
	<td class="column-1">went / had gone</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Normally indicate you're narrating the basic movements of a charcter. That's boring. Rework into something more interesting.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-16 even">
	<td class="column-1">rather</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-17 odd">
	<td class="column-1">simply</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-18 even">
	<td class="column-1">some</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-19 odd">
	<td class="column-1">perhaps / maybe</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-20 even">
	<td class="column-1">so</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-21 odd">
	<td class="column-1">not</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Instead of writing what something isn't, consider writing what it is, unless you're deliberately highlighting the contrast.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-22 even">
	<td class="column-1">thing</td><td class="column-2">red</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-23 odd">
	<td class="column-1">just</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">Lazy word.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-24 even">
	<td class="column-1">as</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">When used as an adverb (e.g. "As big as") or conjunction (e.g. "just as") I hate this word; I think it leads to ugly and/or run-on sentences. I think it's fine as a preposition (e.g. "hired as a cook").</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-25 odd">
	<td class="column-1">now / then</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">Often included to convey a series of events: "Jenny went to the busstop, then she got on the bus, now she's at work." Rework to make the narration more interesting.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-26 even">
	<td class="column-1">as if / like / seemed</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">Consider finding ways to convey the comparison without telling the reader "pay attention to this comparison"</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-27 odd">
	<td class="column-1">there was</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">Lazy phrasing.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-28 even">
	<td class="column-1">because</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">Usually means you're telling the reader the reason for something instead of showing them.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-29 odd">
	<td class="column-1">to</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">This one is kind of nebulous, since the word "to" shows up in some many circumstances. But I find that, when it does show up, it can often mean I've phrased the sentence clumsily.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="row-30 even">
	<td class="column-1">nearly / almost</td><td class="column-2">amber</td><td class="column-3">Often a lazy way to tell the reader the situation is precarious: "The ledge was nearly in reach."</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<!-- #tablepress-1 from cache -->
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		<title>Mongolia: Darkhan</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-darkhan/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-darkhan/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jan 2015 05:33:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bankhar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crowdfunding]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[darkhan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[farming]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kiva]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[microfinance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mongolia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[winter]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=73</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Over the past weekend, I visited Darkhan, the second largest city in Mongolia. Darkhan is situated in northern Mongolia, about 230 kilometres north of Ulaanbaatar and less than 130 kilometres south of the Russian border. Despite being Mongolia’s second-largest city, Darkhan’s population of 76,000 is dwarfed by Ulaanbaatar’s 1,372,000, highlighting how Mongolia’s urbanisation has been &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-darkhan/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Mongolia: Darkhan</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Over the past weekend, I visited Darkhan, the second largest city in Mongolia. Darkhan is situated in northern Mongolia, about 230 kilometres north of Ulaanbaatar and less than 130 kilometres south of the Russian border. Despite being Mongolia’s second-largest city, Darkhan’s population of 76,000 is dwarfed by Ulaanbaatar’s 1,372,000, highlighting how Mongolia’s urbanisation has been concentrated in the fast-growing capital.</p>
<p>I visited Darkhan as part of my work with <a href="http://Kiva.org">Kiva.org</a>, the crowdfunding microfinance non-profit. Kiva partners with two local microfinance organisations—XacBank and Credit Mongol. Part of my job is to undertake an audit of a random sample of Borrowers each organisation has funded through Kiva, to ensure the partnership is operating within agreed parameters.<span id="more-73"></span></p>
<p>The drive to Darkhan, once again, gave me a first-hand appreciation of the size and harshness of Mongolia’s countryside. Farms or other signs of human settlement were few and far between. Instead, the view for the majority of the trip consisted of stark, snow-covered hills from horizon to horizon. We left the smoke haze of Ulaanbaatar behind and, for a time, the air was beautifully clear, giving an unobstructed view of the landscape for kilometres around. But within the first hour, the sky greyed, and the viewing distance shortened dramatically as we drove into a cloud of snowfall that persisted for the rest of the journey and our entire stay in Darkhan. Darkhan’s winters are colder, and it receives much higher snowfall than Ulaanbaatar.</p>
<p>There are two sides to Darkhan: The Soviet-built central area of high rises is referred to by locals as “new Darkhan”, whilst the district of small houses and ger tents is referred to as “old Darkhan”.</p>
<figure id="attachment_80" style="width: 401px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-New.jpg"><img class="  wp-image-80" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-New.jpg" alt="Darkhan-New" width="401" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">New Darkhan</figcaption></figure>
<p>The neighbourhoods of houses and gers in Old Darkhan are significantly different from the ger districts of Ulaanbaatar. Old Darkhan seems far more organised and established than the ramshackle neighbourhoods that have sprung up around Ulaanbaatar in recent years.</p>
<figure id="attachment_81" style="width: 399px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Old.jpg"><img class="  wp-image-81" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Old.jpg" alt="Darkhan-Old" width="399" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Old Darkhan</figcaption></figure>
<p>The average building quality in Darkhan seems significantly higher, and there are far more houses than ger tents. But the region is still poor, making it an ideal area for Kiva and Credit Mongol to assist. The Borrower we visited in Darkhan is a perfect example of the kind of family whose lives microfinance can help improve.</p>
<p>Daariimaa is a 55-year-old horse and cattle farmer.  She took out a loan with Kiva and Credit Mongol during 2014 to finance home renovations, in particular to improve insulation. In Mongolia, improving home insulation has greater importance than simply improving comfort. The poorest families in Mongolia can spend up to 40% of their monthly budget on heating during Winter, due to the biting cold, inefficient coal-fired stoves, and poor insulation. Replacing stoves and improving household insulation has a long-term benefit on the family budget, by significantly reducing ongoing heating expenses.</p>
<p>Daaariimaa and her husband have been rearing livestock in Darkhan for over 30 years. They live alone, although their adult children live close by with their own families. When we arrived, we were immediately greeted by the family guard dog.</p>
<figure id="attachment_75" style="width: 403px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Bankhar.jpg"><img class="  wp-image-75" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Bankhar.jpg" alt="Darkhan-Bankhar" width="403" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A bear-wolf hybrid guards a farmhouse in Darkhan</figcaption></figure>
<p>When I say “dog”, what I really mean is bear-wolf hybrid. He was the most enormous and intimidating dog I’ve ever seen. I don’t know his exact breed mix, but he appeared to have at least some Mongolian Bankhar in him. The Bankhar is Mongolia’s indigenous herding dog, related to the Tibetan Mastiff (blog post on the Bankhar coming soon). His girlfriend, who was far less intimidating and friendlier, came out of the kennel to say “hi”, with her puppies following close behind.</p>
<figure id="attachment_74" style="width: 401px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Bankhar-mother.jpg"><img class="  wp-image-74" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Bankhar-mother.jpg" alt="Darkhan-Bankhar-mother" width="401" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The mama dog comes out of her kennel to say hi, with her pups following close behind</figcaption></figure>
<p>Daariimaa and her husband welcomed us into their home, displaying the legendary Mongolian hospitality. Their house was very modest, but comfortably warm. We shared a pot of airag whilst completing the official business of our visit. Airag is a traditional Mongolian alcoholic drink made by fermenting horse milk. As exotic as airag may sound, the taste was surprisingly mild and pleasant, almost indistinguishable from unsweetened yoghurt. Daariimaa explained that the renovations had gone well, improving the warmth of the home compared to previous winters.</p>
<p>The most striking feature of their home was not the building itself, but the three newborn calves sitting in a dirt-floor area in the corner of the main living space.</p>
<figure id="attachment_76" style="width: 400px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Calves.jpg"><img class="  wp-image-76" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Calves.jpg" alt="Darkhan-Calves" width="400" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Daariimaa keeps the newborn calves in their home until they are big enough to withstand the cold</figcaption></figure>
<p>Daariimaa explained that these calves had all been born within the past three weeks. They kept them inside during the day whilst their mothers grazed with the rest of the herd in the fields beyond the town, because the cold is too intense for the calves at that age. Whilst the babies stay behind, Daariimaa’s husband guides the herd—approximately 30 each of horse and cattle—to pastures out of town each morning and brings them back home each evening.</p>
<figure id="attachment_77" style="width: 400px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Cattle.jpg"><img class="  wp-image-77" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Cattle.jpg" alt="Darkhan-Cattle" width="400" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The young cattle stay at home whilst the herd roams the fields surrounding Darkhan</figcaption></figure>
<p>It has been both eye-opening and uplifting to visit families like Daariimaa’s, who Kiva and Credit Mongol have helped though microfinance. Although the lives of many of these families remaining quite hard, the availability of microfinance has opened doorways for them to improve their lives in ways that would otherwise be impossible. Some have been able to send their spouse or children to university. Others have been able to finance the expansion of their businesses. But in each circumstance, the expansion of opportunity has helped the family lift themselves further out of poverty and provide for a more prosperous future for their children and grandchildren.</p>
<figure id="attachment_79" style="width: 399px;" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Horses.jpg"><img class="  wp-image-79" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Darkhan-Horses.jpg" alt="Darkhan-Horses" width="399" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Horses huddle together to keep warm in Darkhan.</figcaption></figure>
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		<title>Writing: Dissolution, a short story</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/dissolution/</link>
		<comments>http://robertbreen.com.au/dissolution/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Jan 2015 04:12:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Sci-Tech]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Writing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[artificialintelligence]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[scifi]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[writing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://robertbreen.com.au/?p=63</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I wrote this science fiction story, titled &#8220;Dissolution&#8221;, last year. It was published in the multi-genre anthology Anything Goes: Volume 1. The anthology, which contains twenty-one stories including this one, is available to buy in print or ebook here. Dissolution is set in the same near(ish) future setting as a book I&#8217;m currently working on. Let me know &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/dissolution/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Writing: Dissolution, a short story</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>I wrote this science fiction story, titled &#8220;Dissolution&#8221;, last year. It was published in the multi-genre anthology Anything Goes: Volume 1. The anthology, which contains twenty-one stories including this one, is available to buy in print or ebook <a title="Anything Goes: Volume 1" href="http://amzn.com/B00LE3N60I" target="_blank">here</a>.</em><em> Dissolution is set in the same near(ish) future setting as a book I&#8217;m currently working on. Let me know what you think of the story in the comments.</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Dr Ada Low thrust her hand across the desk, killing the power to her computer monitors, turning the screens black.</p>
<p>Mercifully black.</p>
<p>She slumped backwards into her chair. A heavy exhale, almost a groan, burst from her lips. Her fingers itched to rip the memory card from the computer and hurl it out the window.</p>
<p>“I could hurl myself out afterwards,” she laughed, a bit too loudly. She covered her mouth to silence herself. <em>I must be in shock.</em> Her reflection stared back at her from the darkened monitors; her face a sickly shade of grey, drops of sweat beading on her forehead.</p>
<p>Pulling open her bottom drawer, Ada rifled towards the back until her shaking fingers grasped the small packet she desperately needed. Ten minutes later she was on her third cigarette, the first three she had smoked in… <em>is it five years since I quit</em>?</p>
<p>The cigarettes tasted horrible, stale after years waiting at the bottom of her desk. But the smoke still coiled smoothly into her lungs. It was like meeting an old friend you haven’t seen in years, yet the conversation flows like it was yesterday. The smoke tickled her bloodstream with nicotine, pumping the stimulant up into her brain. There, it made itself at home, triggering a familiar flood of neurotransmitters and hormones. A cosy chemical soup, telling Ada that everything would be okay.</p>
<p>Her nerves calmed, she reached back across her desk and flicked the power button.</p>
<p>The screens lit up, filling Ada’s vision with nightmares. <span id="more-63"></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<blockquote><p>“…events of last night have left an estimated twenty-six dead, eighty-seven injured, and over two-billion dollars in damage.</p>
<p>“Rescue and recovery efforts remain severely hampered. Many of the city’s emergency response assets were compromised or destroyed during the incident.</p>
<p>“External aid is being routed into the city to help bring the crisis under control.</p>
<p>“Police and government officials still refuse to comment on whether this was a terrorist attack, or some kind of catastrophic accident.</p>
<p>“But many independent analysts are already declaring this to be the most advanced and devastating act of cyberterrorism in history. The complexity of the assault on the city’s systems, they say, goes far beyond the capabilities of any known organisations, including the government…“</p></blockquote>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<p>“Someone hacked their lattices!” Ada leaned over the shoulder of her close friend and former professor, Raina Gates-Xhe, head of Zentec’s telecommunications research and development team. Ada spoke fast, breathless from her run across Zentec’s compound to Raina’s office. She tapped the shifting, multi-coloured images on the older woman’s screens as she continued. “Someone hacked their lattices and grew them into-“</p>
<p>“Ada, calm down.” Raina gently pulled her friend’s arm away from the screens. She swiveled in her chair to face Ada. “Calm down,” she repeated softly, pulling the hyperactive woman into a chair beside Raina’s desk.</p>
<p>Raina’s nerves were already frayed. She had spent the past few days and nights helping Zentec bring the city’s systems back online after the horrific “incident” earlier in the week. According to the morning news, officials had revised the death toll estimate to seventy and the property damage to over four billion dollars. Raina felt exhausted and she struggled to follow her friend’s manic ramblings.</p>
<p>“Start from the beginning and go slow. Remember, I’m not a neuroscientist. These scans don’t mean much to me.”</p>
<p>Ada took a deep breath. “Okay, let me start over. It’s probably easier if I use the projector, so you can see the whole thing at once.”</p>
<p>Ada waved a few hand gestures into the air. A control panel on the wall beeped in response. The large windows at the end of the room turned opaque, blocking out the daylight, as the holo-projectors in each corner of the ceiling stuttered to life.</p>
<p>The system’s welcome message appeared, floating in the middle of the room: a three-dimensional, stylized letter <em>Z</em>, beneath which hovered the company motto:</p>
<p>“Zentec – solving tomorrow’s problems today.”</p>
<p>Ada waved a few more gestures in the air, swiping the welcome holo out of the way and flicking the images from Raina’s screens into the centre of the room.</p>
<p>Eight translucent heads bobbed in mid-air; false-colour medical scans, shaded blue. The faces, bones, and most of the organs were dimmed in order to focus attention on the brains, which flared with an electric-blue light. Throughout each brain, thousands—<em>no, </em>Raina realised, <em>millions</em>—of very fine threads were woven into complex structures, resembling spider webs, or the roots of a tree. The threads radiated from a central spot, shaped like a grain of rice, fused to the top of each spinal cord.</p>
<p>Ada stood and took position in the centre of the room. She reached out and rearranged the heads, the holo system responding to her movements as if the images were physical objects. Ada arranged the heads with seven in a circle and one in the centre. She flicked her fingers to summon a holographic control panel in the air in front of her.</p>
<p>“These eight kids are all in the same school, the same class in fact. A game theory class—costs a fortune—designed for upwardly-mobile brats. They’re all aged between nine and twelve. Seven have Zentec’s latest neural lattice. My design.</p>
<p>“The eighth girl,” Ada pointed to one of the floating heads in the circle, labeled Deborah Jeong-Ivanov, “her parents unfortunately chose an Ourogen lattice seed, right before the company went bust. Crappy tech, those Ourogen lattices. They barely boost brain function at all and the wifi link they give the patient is laggy as hell, barely good enough to play basic VR games.” Ada looked to see if Raina was following. The single raised eyebrow on the older woman’s face reminded Ada of her student days. <em>I must be rambling again</em>, Ada thought. She cleared her throat and moved on.</p>
<p>“Anyway, the data for these images come from each seed’s medical black box. I’ve linked them together into eight synchronized time lapses. They start from when the seeds were implanted in-utero. I hate that we can still only implant during the first trimes-”</p>
<p>“Wait,” Raina interrupted, stopping Ada from going off on another tangent. “That name, Jeong-Ivanov. Is that who I think it is? And these others names,” she pointed to the labels under the other children’s faces, “Ada, are they—“</p>
<p>“Yes, you would know them all. Or rather, you know who their parents are.” Each of the children possessed a famous family name, a roll call of world leaders and corporate tycoons across multiple industries, from weapons manufacturing to agrigenetics. “Eight children, each from one of the world’s most powerful families. Genetically designed, enhanced, and trained—from womb to tomb—for global leadership.”</p>
<p>“Ade, what have you gotten yourself into?”</p>
<p>Raina’s face was pale, matching Ada’s reflection from earlier that morning.</p>
<p>“Trouble Rae, a decent amount of trouble. Somewhere between a lot and—” she looked back at the images:</p>
<p>“—and maybe the end of the world.”</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<p>Ada ran through the replay of the children’s medical scans, explaining the nightmare she had found lurking on the memory card.</p>
<p>As Ada spoke, Raina slid lower down the back of her chair, until she was almost falling off the seat. She held one hand clamped across her mouth, the other on her stomach, as if she were about to vomit.</p>
<p>The previously blue images now filled the room with an angry red glare, signaling catastrophic damage to each child’s brain.</p>
<p>Throughout most of the replay, everything had looked normal. The lattice seeds wove their nano-scale mesh of silicon, carbon, and gold throughout the nascent brain and nervous system of each embryo. From birth through early childhood, the lattices grew with the child, boosting neuron growth and connectivity, providing fibre-optic shortcuts between regions of the brain, and eventually—at age three—activating the lattice’s wireless communications function, freeing the children from their reliance on desktop, handheld, or wearable computers.</p>
<p>However, during the final phase of the replay, something had gone horribly wrong. It began with one child, the girl Ada had placed in the centre of the circle. According to the holo data, a little under a year ago the spiderwebs of her neural lattice had gone rogue.</p>
<p>The shimmering threads lost their delicate appearance, exploding into a surge of new growth. Jagged fibres gouged through the girl’s grey matter, strangling and piercing her neurons. The cells deformed: at first just throwing out new dendrites, forming exponentially more connections between themselves. But as the golden weeds nestled deeper, the neurons ceased being neurons. Raina’s stomach heaved as she watched the folded lobes of the girl’s brain disintegrate, rebuilding themselves into an unrecognisable nightmare, a twisted chimera of flesh and circuitry.</p>
<p>Three months after the first child, the scans showed the other seven suffering the same grotesque fate, all within days of each other.</p>
<p>“Ade, this is horrible. How? The children, those poor children. Why haven’t I seen this on the news? How could so many high-profile deaths be covered up?”</p>
<p>“Deaths?” Ada’s brow furrowed, glancing back and forth between the images and the horror painted on her mentor’s face. Realisation replaced puzzlement. “No, Rae, no. They’re not dead.”</p>
<p>“But there’s nothing left of them. It’s all, it’s all a mess!” Raina’s hand flew back to her mouth as her stomach heaved again.</p>
<p>Ada let go of the holographic control panel, leaving it hovering as she rushed back to her friend’s side. “No no no no no, Rae, that’s not the problem. They’re not dead. They’re not dead. The kids are at home, right now, with their parents.”</p>
<p>“But, but they have no…“ she waved her arm at the nightmare images. “How?”</p>
<p>“I hoped you could help me figure it out.”</p>
<p>Raina’s head tilted to one side. “What are you talking about?”</p>
<p>“Look closer.”</p>
<p>“What?” Raina redirected her puzzled frown from Ada back to the holo. Something in the mess of images tickled a sense of recognition. She stood, shakily, from her desk and took Ada’s position in the centre of the room, grabbing the floating control panel.</p>
<p>She zoomed in on the first girl’s scan, enlarging it to fill the entire room, wincing as the monstrous mish-mash of parts swelled around her. Raina spotted new patterns in the chaos. She adjusted the colour settings on the scan, accounting for material density, molecular composition, and energy flow. The angry red glow disappeared as Raina assigned a rainbow of colour markers to what she saw.</p>
<p>“My god.” Raina’s voice was barely a whisper. She stepped away from the control panel, huddling close to her friend and gazing around the room.</p>
<p>“That’s why I came to you.” Ada took Raina’s hand. The two scientists and long-time friends stood shoulder to shoulder, staring at the floating images surrounding them. With the new colours differentiating the red mess, both women could clearly see the shape of a high-powered, semi-organic wireless communications array dominating the girl’s skull.</p>
<p>“But, what’s it connecting to? How can they still be alive?”</p>
<p>“What do you do when your home computer runs out of storage space? Or you need extra processing power for an experiment?” The look of despair lifted from Ada’s face as she spoke. Raina recognised Ada’s wide-eyed, mad scientist look; it always took over the younger woman’s face whenever she thought she had hit a breakthrough.</p>
<p>Raina scoffed at the implication. “You’re not seriously suggesting, what? That someone,” Raina struggled to say the word, “<em>outsourced</em> the children’s minds? Turned their bodies into puppets and their brains into routers? Ridiculous.”</p>
<p>“Look at the scans, Rae. The kids are up and walking around, but each of them has one of those things living in their skull.” Ada reached over to the holo controls and zoomed back out. She applied Raina’s colour scheme to all eight scans, revealing a similar device in place of each child’s brain.</p>
<p>“But who would do it, Ade? And why?”</p>
<p>Ada sat down in Raina’s chair, kicking it away from the desk so she could put her feet up. She flipped a cigarette out of her pocket and lit it, earning a frown from Raina. Ada took a deep drag on the cigarette before she spoke.</p>
<p>“I think the little shits did it to themselves. I think they hacked their own lattices and gave themselves an upgrade.”</p>
<p>As they watched the replays again and Ada explained her theory, Raina found herself nodding despite her initial incredulity. It wasn’t a malfunction. The way it happened to one child first, then all the others a few months later, within days of each other, ruled out product fault. The children were all different ages and the Jeong-Ivanov girl possessed a different device to the rest. There was only one common factor: the children were all friends, all in the same class. One child hacked herself, and then taught the others how to do it. It fit the facts.</p>
<p>A thought occurred to Raina. “Why haven’t their parents said anything? Why aren’t the police involved? This is huge. No offence, Ade, but why aren’t you in jail right now? You said you were in trouble—‘end of the world trouble’—yet you’re sitting here. Smoking in my office.”</p>
<p>The excited expression vanished from Ada’s face, replaced by the look of despair she had worn upon entering the room. She took her feet off the desk and leant forward. Ash fell from her cigarette to the floor, turning Raina’s frown into a scowl. When Ada next spoke, her voice was a whisper.</p>
<p>“Have you been watching the news lately?”</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<blockquote><p>“…details of yesterday’s missile strike on downtown Ulan Bator remain hard to confirm, due to ongoing disruptions to global telecommunications. UPSR Defence Secretary, Xiuli Yang-Wu, has reiterated her condemnation of the attack, repeating her claim that separatist militia forces are responsible. However…“</p></blockquote>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<blockquote><p>“…small but growing group of independent analysts remain very vocal, insisting that these events are connected, the work of one or more rogue artificial intelligences. However, NSA analysts have ridiculed such theories, arguing that AI science is decades, if not centuries, away from such feats. They continue to insist…”</p></blockquote>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<blockquote><p>“…is our punishment for tampering with the flesh of God’s children. Those foul sinners, filled with pride in their ivory towers, have spat on the Lord’s designs for decades. They manipulate the blood, the genes, of their own babies, defying the Lord to raise their spawn above the rest of Creation. The worst of these devils even poison the minds, the very souls, of their offspring, whilst the poor lambs are still in the womb, infecting the child with silicon seeds of demonic intent! Traitors to…“</p></blockquote>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<p>It took Raina a week to scrutinise each black box. The lattices had become the nexus and router of each child’s thoughts. Raina traced the data-flows out from the lattices to the scattered supercomputers and data warehouses hosting each child’s expanding mind. Based on the volume of data passing through each lattice, Raina estimated each child was processing fifty to one hundred times more information than a normal human brain.</p>
<p>After these initial discoveries, it took Raina only a few more days to discover the real horror. Ada had suspected the truth from the moment she first saw the deformities in the medical scans. She had said nothing to Raina, not wanting to taint her friend’s analysis with her suspicions.</p>
<p>Raina had identified dozens of spikes in energy use and data traffic, synchronised across each child’s network. Curious, she ran an analysis correlating the peaks to any real-world events. The results stopped her breath. The timing of each surge matched perfectly to one of the horrific events dominating global news.</p>
<p>Raina immediately called Ada with the news. The children were behind the escalating toll of death and destruction breaking the world apart.</p>
<p>But Ada already knew.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<p>Ada swore as the flashlight fell from between her teeth and clattered loudly on the floor. The sound reverberated out the open door and down the darkened corridor. She knew the labs were deserted at this hour, but it still set her heart racing. Ada spat a stream of expletives into the room, their echoes chasing the flashlight’s clatter. She gripped the top rung of the ladder with white knuckles, waiting for her pulse to slow and her hands to stop trembling.</p>
<p><em>Just one device to go</em>, she reminded herself. The last of seventy-four. After days of frenzied manufacturing in her garage at home, Ada had spent four long nights digging around the maintenance crawlspaces, smuggling her makeshift machines into the ceiling, wall, and floor cavities throughout her lab.</p>
<p>The past few weeks had been hell, not just for Ada, but also for a growing percentage of the world’s population. War, chaos, and ruin now consumed every corner of the globe. To the children, engineered and trained for global domination, it must all be like a grand game, played on a huge board with real world pieces. The size of their board and the number of pieces they controlled would continue to grow, unless someone stopped them.</p>
<p>As Ada gripped the ladder, she did her best to forget the expression on Raina’s face when her friend discovered the truth. Much of Raina’s extended family and friends lived in Ulan Bator, where more bodies were dragged from the rubble every day since the missile strike.</p>
<p>The two women had not spoken since their last meeting ten days ago, despite Raina’s constant calls and voicemails. Ada had needed her old friend’s help to confirm the truth, but she was determined to keep Raina away from what came next.</p>
<p>Ada’s blood stopped pounding in her ears and her hands steadied on the ladder. She took a slow, controlled breath before making her way down to retrieve the flashlight and finish the job.</p>
<p>The seventy-four machines hidden throughout the lab lay dormant, but would spring to life at her command.</p>
<p>Tomorrow.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<p>The ashtray fell from the desk and smashed, ceramic shards and dozens of cigarette butts scattering across the floor, an ash cloud billowing into the air. Ada sighed, though it came out more as an angry thrust of air than a slow exhale. She should have looked where she was waving her cigarette hand, but her eyes were glued to the monitor, watching the children arrive one-by-one to Zentec’s facility.</p>
<p>She jammed the glowing end of her cigarette straight into the dark mahogany surface of her desk. <em>Why not</em>, she thought. <em>With the whole world gone to hell, what’s a desk</em>? This thought made her giggle; an odd, strangled sound.</p>
<p>Ada stalked out of her office, making her way through the lab to reception. The children, the subjects, the terrorists, the robots—whatever they were—had all arrived.</p>
<p>She caught her reflection in a passing mirror and paused, quickly straightening her greasy hair and wrinkled shirt. Her makeup could not hide her bloodshot eyes nor the dark circles beneath them. She was running on nothing but adrenalin and nicotine.</p>
<p>Her phone buzzed. Raina. A text this time. <em>She must be sick of leaving voicemails</em>. “Stop them,” was all it said. <em>Oh Rae</em>, Ada thought, <em>would you still say that if you knew the cost?</em></p>
<p>One final, calming breath and Ada pushed open the door to the reception room.</p>
<p>Her skin crawled at the sight of eight small figures, each one flanked by nervous parents. But as she looked, she struggled to believe these eight children—<em>they were children</em>—could be responsible for all the chaos.</p>
<p><em>No</em>, Ada shook herself. <em>The data doesn’t lie</em>.</p>
<p>The children each looked at Ada, wearing various expressions of nervousness, confusion, boredom. Ada wondered if those expressions were real, or just a mask. She wondered if they still felt emotions.</p>
<p>The parents looked universally anxious, but less than they should be. Ada had told them the truth about their children, but not the truth about her solution. They all thought their little babies would be sedated, to have the changes to their lattices reversed.</p>
<p>But the changes were irreversible. Ada couldn’t anaesthetise the children.</p>
<p>She had to euthanise them.</p>
<p>Each lattice formed the nexus, the communication hub between the scattered pieces of the child’s evolving mind. Cut all contact to the core and the system collapses.</p>
<p>Ada’s phone beeped again. Annoyed at the distraction, she flipped it open to switch it off, but paused when she saw that it wasn’t a call or a message.</p>
<p>Her screen flashed, an alert from one of the seventy-four signal jammers, one hidden in the ceiling. It had switched on, to run a basic diagnostic on itself. <em>Shit,</em> Ada thought. <em>What is it doing? I didn’t give the comman</em>&#8211;</p>
<p>One of the children, the oldest boy, was frowning up at a spot on the ceiling, exactly where the jammer was hidden. A split second later, the other seven little heads turned up to the ceiling.</p>
<p><em>No time</em>, Ada realised. She swiped her finger across her phone, commanding all the jammers to power-up.</p>
<p>Four seconds.</p>
<p>The machines would turn the lab into a total wireless blackout zone, severing the children’s bodies from the isolated pieces of their minds, destroying their networks, destroying them.</p>
<p>Three seconds.</p>
<p>All eight heads swiveled to glare at Ada with expressions of fear and fury. Only one of them spoke: “No.”</p>
<p>Two seconds.</p>
<p>A power surge rippled outwards from the centre of the lab. Like dominos, the children’s bodies fell, lifeless, to the ground. Their parents screamed.</p>
<p>One second.</p>
<p>The jammers came online. But it was too late.</p>
<p>The trap had failed.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">***</p>
<p>Ada stared at the two objects on her dining table. Her foot furiously tapped the carpet under her chair, causing the police ankle monitor to rattle against her shoe.</p>
<p>Five days of house arrest since the first hearing. Five days of missile strikes, fires, riots, revolutions, stock markets crashing, societies collapsing.</p>
<p>The inquest would last for months. The international panel had been cobbled together from whatever ‘experts’ could be spared from the more important job of managing the myriad catastrophes. After one hearing, the panel was already sharply divided, arguing whether the children were victims of murder, suicide, or an industrial accident. None wanted to consider Ada’s explanation, that the children were very much alive and were themselves the cause of the global breakdown.</p>
<p>Five days. Ada couldn’t stand another one.</p>
<p>She wondered if the children missed their parents, their flesh and blood. She wondered if they missed their physical bodies, their literal flesh and blood. <em>What must it feel like to abandon your own skin, to shed it like a snake?</em></p>
<p>For the tenth time, Ada fingered the pistol lying on the table. She yearned to jam the barrel into her mouth and squeeze the trigger. <em>A clean escape</em>. The chaos was her fault, but it wasn’t humanly possible for her to stop it.</p>
<p>Ada sighed. There was the real problem. It wasn’t “humanly” possible. But it was possible.</p>
<p>A final sob and Ada made her decision. Letting go of the pistol, she grabbed the sleek syringe lying next to it. Inside, a lattice seed, recalibrated for her adult brain and programmed with a new growth plan. It would probably kill her, no patient older than an embryo ever survived implantation.</p>
<p>But, if by some slim chance her revised calculations were correct, her redesigned seed could work. It would not kill her, instead she would become like the children. She could fight them on their own ground. “Still sounds like death to me,” she told the empty room.</p>
<p>Ada plunged the syringe into the back of her neck and squeezed the trigger.</p>
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		<title>Mongolia: First Impressions</title>
		<link>http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-first-impressions/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Jan 2015 09:40:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[mongolia]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[This is the first of many blog posts chronicling my time in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. It is also my first ever blog post. Drop a comment below letting me know how I did and what topics you’d like to see in future. &#160; It&#8217;s a terrible cliché—and an ancient Simpsons joke—to call a country “A Land &#8230; <a href="http://robertbreen.com.au/mongolia-first-impressions/" class="more-link">Continue reading <span class="screen-reader-text">Mongolia: First Impressions</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>This is the first of many blog posts chronicling my time in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. It is also my first ever blog post. Drop a comment below letting me know how I did and what topics you’d like to see in future.</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>It&#8217;s a terrible cliché—and an ancient Simpsons joke—to call a country “A Land of Contrasts”, or Extremes, or Superlatives. But there are no better phrases to describe Mongolia and its capital, Ulaanbaatar. By almost any  conceivable measure it is a far-from-average place. This theme of contrasts and extremes will flow through many of my future blog posts, but to avoid making this post too long, here are just my initial observations.</p>
<p>The “Land of Contrasts” notion hit me even before the plane touched down. Flying over the Gobi Desert, I found myself gobsmacked at the scale and emptiness of the countryside. Australia is often described as a wide, brown, empty land, but Mongolia has us beaten. With only 3.1 million people spread across a whopping 1.6 million square kilometres, Mongolia is the most sparsely populated country on Earth. But that sense of space evaporated as the plane approached the capital, Ulaanbaatar. In stark contrast (see, there’s that word) to the emptiness of the countryside, Ulaanbaatar is a sprawling metropolis, home to over 1.3 million people, or almost half the population of the entire country.<span id="more-56"></span></p>
<p>The first sign that we were approaching Ulaanbaatar wasn’t the appearance of buildings or farmland, but rather a subtle change of colour in the landscape below. The yellowy-brown of dry Winter grass gave way to an odd bluish-grey. I initially mistook this change for a smear on my plane window, but I soon realised it was an enormous plume of smoke wafting South across the plains.</p>
<figure id="attachment_57" style="width: 1000px;" class="wp-caption alignnone"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Blog01-01.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-57" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Blog01-01.jpg" alt="A thick, blue-grey haze of smoke hangs over Ulaanbaatar" width="1000" height="562" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A thick, blue-grey haze of smoke hangs over Ulaanbaatar</figcaption></figure>
<p>I had read about the city’s pollution problems before arriving, a sharp contrast (see, there it is again) to the pristine nature of the countryside. Ulaanbaatar is the coldest capital city on Earth (superlative!). It was early Winter when I arrived, but even at this time of year temperatures rarely rise above -10°C during the day and they plunge well below -20°C overnight. By February, nighttime temperatures of -40°C are not uncommon. It is so cold that fractal forests of frost grow over my apartment window each night. These forests are dispelled by the midday Sun, only to regrow in new formations when darkness falls again.</p>
<figure id="attachment_58" style="width: 1000px;" class="wp-caption alignnone"><a class="lightbox" href="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Blog01-02.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-58" src="http://robertbreen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Blog01-02.jpg" alt="Fractal forests of frost grow over my apartment windows every night." width="1000" height="562" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Fractal forests of frost grow over my apartment windows every night.</figcaption></figure>
<p>To combat these frigid temperatures, the city devotes huge amounts of energy and effort to domestic heating. The majority (60%) of Ulaanbaatar’s residents live in ger districts; these outlying neighbourhoods are so named for the traditional felt tents (gers, also called yurts) in which the residents live. The ger districts are poor areas that lack centralised heating, water, or sewerage; residents survive the bitter cold by burning charcoal in small stove ovens. The smoke from burning coal in these ovens causes the thick haze that accumulates over the city, making Ulaanbaatar the second-most polluted city on Earth, where air pollution causes 1 in 10 deaths.</p>
<p>Ulaanbaatar’s extreme pollution problems and the solutions currently being implemented by organisations such as XacBank, Credit Mongol, and Kiva, will be a future blog topic.</p>
<p>After the density of the city, the pollution in the air, and the extremity of the cold, the final thing which hit me upon arrival was the heart of the people. I have been extremely fortunate to meet some of the friendliest people since I arrived. The Kiva Coordinator for XacBank, one of Kiva’s local partner banks, has been a lifesaver. She gave me a place to stay when I first arrived, she found me my apartment, she has helped me navigate the city, held my hand through Mongolia’s somewhat nightmarish immigration processes, and she continues to be a great friend. Batzul, you rock.</p>
<p>Similarly, everyone I’ve met—whether local or expat—has gone out of their way to make me feel welcome and help me find my feet. I’ve mentioned this flood of hospitality to a few locals, noting that after only a few weeks I have a bunch of new friends to socialise and go out with. The typical response from the locals is to nod in agreement, but when I mention going out at night, they often give me a warning: be careful in bars and clubs, they say; when some Mongolians have a few drinks, they like to fight, and the faces of foreigners can become their favourite targets.</p>
<p>Like I said, A Land of Contrasts.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Upcoming blog topics will include the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Misattributed Statue Selfie: How I Became Mildly Famous in Ulaanbaatar by Being a Dumb Foreigner on Instagram</li>
<li>My Kiva Fellowship in Mongolia: Why Am I Here?</li>
<li>The Bankhar: resurrecting an ancient breed of Mongolia sheepdog</li>
<li>Ulaanbaatar, Culinary Wonderland</li>
<li>Stoves and Solar: how green technologies are fighting pollution</li>
</ul>
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